HCA vs. ASET – Which Is More Important For Diamond Performance Evaluation?

Q:

Hi Liz,

I came across your website yesterday and found it extremely helpful. I have been looking for a new diamond for the past month for a 30th wedding anniversary gift as I lost the diamond in my ring a few months back – I have gone to 2 jewelers and looked online at Blue Nile. Per your advice, I also looked on Whiteflash and Ritani yesterday. My specs: Cut: Ex/Id; Clarity – Si(1) and above; Carat – 1.1 to 1.4; Color – D to J; Price – no more than $8400; Table – 53-58; Depth – 58-61.7; Polish/Symmetry – Ideal; Culet – None/Pointed. Here are my questions:

1. If a diamond doesn’t have an AGS report, would you be comfortable buying with a GIA 3x Excellent and a HCA excellent rating? Basically what are your thoughts of the HCA vs ASET?

2. On the White Flash Diamonds I was able to see the AGS reports – regarding those reports, do you want to see “red” in center of diamond versus “green”?

3. Regarding HCA ratings, some of the Whiteflash had only 1 “Excellent” rating and 3 “Very Good” – yet still an overall “Excellent” rating – is that okay?

I haven’t been satisfied with the jewelry stores I’ve visited; they don’t seem to have the AGS technology or don’t want to discuss it. One jewelry store has a SI(2) I color 3x Excellent cut for $8200 but I don’t know the specs to be able to plug in the HCA rating; and the other had a VS(2) J Color VG Cut Ex P/S for $7900 but I don’t have the specs on that for the HCA rating, and I’m not sure if either of these is good value for the price; hence the reason for online shopping and more research.

Do you have any diamond recommendations? Thank you for your help!

Mary

HCA vs ASET Image – The Difference Between A Computer Algorithm And Light Performance Image

A:

Hello Mary,

Thank you for detailing out your diamond requirements and available budget.

To answer your question, a GIA graded diamond is perfectly fine to purchase online. However, an ASET or ideal-scope image coupled with a magnified image of the exact diamond should be made available in order to determine overall light performance and acceptable clarity grade. Regarding HCA vs ASET, please keep in mind that HCA ratings are just a very loose guide and should not be used for final decision making. The HCA online tool is simply a mathematical algorithm and plugs in numbers to arrive at a guesstimate of light performance. Actual light performance images like ASET or Ideal-scope always trump any HCA score. Therefore, I don’t hold much value in the HCA score and do not advise my clients to purchase a diamond with this as the only indicator of light performance.

ASET images with a red or green center is perfectly fine. The center color is a result of overall table reflection as dependent on the average pavilion angle.

Many brick and mortar jewelry stores sell their diamonds the “old-school” way. Light reflection technology is still too advanced for the typical family/mall jeweler and they are therefore limited in their diamond education with concern to this.

Diamonds sold through regular retail and jewelry stores are also sold at prices that are 25-35% more than online prices. This is because they have to account for other expenses such as rental space, staff salaries, electricity, etc. Some people enjoy the experience of walking into a jewelry store and paying extra for this service. However, if you are a consumer that knows exactly what kind of quality diamond you want, then your best bet is to purchase online from an well established diamond retailer.

Given your specs and budget, I like the following diamond for you: 1.232ct J VS1 for $8,536.00: https://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut-loose-diamond-2982218.htm

A gorgeous stone that gives you a nice large 1.232ct, exceptional clarity, and well within your budget. There are no external blemishes on this stone. There is only 1 feather and 2 tiny pinpoints that have been marked from the pavilion view on this diamond, with 1 tiny pinpoint on the edge of a kite facet (crown view). This stone is very very clean! If you are looking to maximize carat weight, I would definitely go for this stone.

Please let me know if you have any questions on any of the above. I look forward to speaking with you soon.

Kind Regards,

Liz

Q:

Thanks Liz for your quick and helpful response. I appreciate your easy to understand synopsis of the HCA vs ASET debate. Very helpful!

I did “chat” with a rep from Whiteflash yesterday as I said and asked her what “eye clean” meant – and I guess Whiteflash has their definition of that (nothing to see within 8″ from eye) but isn’t there a standard definition of “eye clean” meaning inclusions not seen unless under 10x magnification or are they implying that their definition isn’t to that? Just wondered if that was a potential issue?

I am looking at a solitaire setting, i.e., I don’t want one with diamonds on the side, etc., as I want the $$ spent on the diamond itself – other than that, there are several solitaire settings – what would you recommend there? I would just want it in 14K gold – should I get the 6 prong due to size of diamond?

Mary

A:

Mary,

Diamonds are graded under 10′x magnification and under balanced lighting conditions. Technically if a diamond has inclusions that are visible from the face-up view without magnification then it would already be downgraded to an I1 clarity grade. A VS2 diamond by definition has inclusions that are “somewhat” difficult to see under 10x’s magnification.

Eye-clean basically means that you cannot detect any visible inclusions when looking straight down into the stone from it’s face-up position (roughly 8-10 inches away with 20/20 eye-sight). Ideal cut grade becomes a factor because light reflected at it’s maximum camouflages many internal inclusions that your eye would normally focus on. The result is a brilliantly white diamond. Inclusions may or may not be visible from the side or pavilion angle.

Don’t get too caught up with this. I’ve seen many diamonds and most inclusions aren’t easily visible. Only very poor quality SI2 or I1′s show very obvious inclusions.

As far as settings go, the classic six-prong knife edge shown here is simply gorgeous: https://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/classic-tiffany-style-knife-edge-solitaire-engagement-ring-713.htm. It has better polishing detail than the other less costly version.

I do love Vatche’s designs because they are so sleek and classy, but they only are available in white gold or platinum.

Kind Regards,

Liz

Q:

Hi Liz,

Well as I feared, the 1.232ct J VS1 I was originally interested in has sold. So I am still searching, but now we are ready to buy. I decided to open up the search to SI diamonds just to see if anything popped out:

https://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut-loose-diamond-2938311.htm – 1.328 SI(1) J – lots of twinning wisps – any problem?

https://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut-loose-diamond-2953038.htm 1.286 VS(2) I – probably out of my price range but how does it look clarity wise?

I plan on ordering tomorrow – thanks again for your help.

Mary

A:

Hi Mary,

https://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut-loose-diamond-2938311.htm – there is nothing to worry about with twinning wisps, the stone’s light reflection is not affected by these inclusions. This stone is eye-clean.

https://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut-loose-diamond-2953038.htm – a nice VS2 with tiny cloud/crystal/feather inclusions. These are white/gray. This stone is eye-clean.

Of the two, I like the 1.328ct J SI1 the best. It offers great value for money. It is eye-clean and has a nice bright ASET image. Though it isn’t part of Whiteflash’s ACA diamonds, it still provides the brilliance and light reflection that you are after. A beautiful diamond overall.

I hope this helps Mary.

1.328ct J SI1 from Whiteflash

Kind Regards,

Liz

Q:

Thanks again Liz! I just placed the order for the 1.328 diamond! I really appreciate your help throughout this process and feel confident now that I’m getting a beautiful ring – I look forward to getting this ring and will let you know once it comes!

Mary